Cline Wines Pack a Punch

For the past two days, I have been tasting and chatting wine with Hilary Cline  (young daughter of Fred Cline) and Keith Morris (of Cork Dork fame) at the American Wine School’s Cleveland location. After sipping and pitting Cline up with more than 20+ wines, I think I have a good understanding of the Cline Cellars portfolio, and I also learned a little something about the Oakley, Contra Costa wine region of California. I must say, our tastings flights created an interesting match up, and Cline Cellars faired well against some pretty good sparring partners.

For starters, the Cline’s are known for having some of the oldest vines in California (like 80-120 years old!) with interesting varieties such as Mourvedre, Carignane, Syrah and the like planted in Contra Costa. [2010 Ancient Vine Mourvedre, Contra Costa & 2010 Ancient Vine Zinfandel, California] Hilary was quick to tell me that the vines are dry farmed and enjoy cool nights due to the moderating effect of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers. I later learned that the vines are planted (bush training) on well-drained, sandy soils giving the wines the best chance of finding water in the region’s hot climate; doing so keeps the fruit from taking on a raisin character.

Cline also has vineyards in Carneros, where cooler climates play an important roll in keeping acidity high in the grape. This region is planted to Syrah, Viognier, which we pitted against other California & French examples during a blind tasting. It is not surprising to learn that Hilary Cline found her family’s wines the easiest to sip (she has an excellent palate btw)…even blind! Personally, I adored the 2010 Cline North Coast Viognier. The wine’s crispness balanced the exotic floral, apricot nature of Viognier making it a good sipping wine for any occasion.

The beefiest flight of the two days focused on Cline’s smallest production wines – their Single Vineyards 2009 Big Break Zinfandel & 2009 Live Oak Zinfandel, both from Contra Costa. The wines are crafted from ancient vines that stem from the 1900s. As expected, Big Break Zin is a full-bodied wine with lots of ripe black fruit, spice, and toast…but it’s the hit of eucalyptus (along with noticeable acidity) that enables the wine to pop on your palate and remain refreshing and approachable. Weighing in at 16% alcohol, Live Oak Zinfandel enters the match. Full bodied, concentrated and packing a direct punch of black fruits, baking spices, cola, and meatiness with just the right dose of acidity.  Firm tannins are accompanied by a bit of oak still riding on top of the fruit. Nothing a few years in my cellar or a big fat steak on my dinner plate would not cure. Bottomline, the wines rocked. Cheers.

 

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Screwing Around with the Cork

Most winelovers would like to say that they always open a bottle of wine using proper technique. That said, many times necessity (aka lack of an opener) overrides technique, and the vinous will takes over. Personally, I have been know to open a bottle of wine using a self-created method I call “pigeage-bouchon” or punching down the cork with a sturdy chopstick. It may not be pretty, but it gets the job done.  Stuck without a corkscrew in a formal setting? No worries.  I once co-hosted an event with the infamous Chef Georges Perrier at Le Bec-Fin, and witnessed his dramatic attempt to saber a bottle of Champagne in front of 100 guests; he did so without spilling a single drop or bubble. We all know that opening a bottle of wine with a corkscrew is the easiest and most correct way to remove the cork. Simply place the knife of the waiter’s friend (pictured in blue in top photo) under the second lip of the bottle, cut the capsule, and screw the worm of the opener into the cork. Once inserted, the hinged pull makes it easy pop the cork using the top of the bottle for leverage. Try to remove the cork by wiggling it out instead of letting it pop. Not only is it considered rude, but a loud pop can be followed by spewing wine creating both a waste and a mess. Regardless of method, the most important task at hand is to get the cork out of the bottle, and the wine in your glass. Check out this Frechman, who (BTW) does not need to be opening another bottle of wine http://youtu.be/zv8RvNxy6uM , offering an alternative way to “get smart” about uncorking the bottle. It’s a “shoe-in.” Cheers & Sipitgood

 

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Decanting Wine

WHY WE DECANT WINE

 Reason #1 – Letting the wine breathe: If you like big reds, then you need a decanter. Here’s why: The aroma and complexity of full-bodied, red wine actually improves with aeration (the addition of oxygen). Simply removing the cork does not allow the wine to breathe. You need to get the wine out of the bottle, so oxygen can mix with the wine. Try this, pour yourself a glass of good, quality red wine, give it a swirl, and taste it. Set the glass on your kitchen counter for 30 minutes. Then, swirl the wine and give it another sniff. By doing so, you will be able to experience first-hand how a red wine evolves in the glass.  When you decant a wine, you are increasing wine’s surface area, and thereby increasing oxygen into the wine, making the evolution process happen faster than in the glass alone. The greater the surface area the wine comes in contact with, the more oxygen is dissolved into the wine; hence the wide circumference of most wine decanters.

Reason #2 – Removal of sediment: At one time or another, we all have opened a bottle of red from our cellar only to find yucky sediment in the bottle. No worries. This is a natural part of the wine’s aging process. As red wines age, they lose color and tannin in the form of sediment. Full-bodied reds, with age of say 10 years or so, and Vintage Ports usually require decanting to separate the clean wine from the sediment.

Reason #3 – Creating a beautiful table: Whether red or white, wines in a decanter spruce up any table. And it does not have to be a formal dinner. From outdoor grilling for a crowd to simple dinner for two, serving wine from a beautiful decanter creates a fun, family-style approach to al fresco dining. We work hard to present our food in a visually pleasing manner…isn’t it about time we did so with wine?

 MARIANNE’S FAVORITE DECANTER:

While you can decant into any glass or crystal container, decanters that have a wide circumference offer the best surface area ratio for aerating a wine. At home, and at the American Wine School, I use the Classico decanter from Schott Zwiesel. It is affordable, durable, and easy to use. Cheers!

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The “ah ha moment”

Perfect place for a wine "ah ha moment"

 

 Everyone has one. That singular point in time when you “got” wine for the very first time. It’s your vinous ”ah ha moment” and there isn’t a sweeter sip to be had. Lots of people drink wine, but once you’ve experience your wine WOW you will never approach a glass in the same manner. You stop merely sipping wine and start savouring wine by taking in all that it has to offer including the wine’s history, geography, sensibility, and winemaking tradition.

My wine “ah ha moment” was so passionate, it literally changed my life. Circa 1994, I produced an uber highend trip to Bordeaux for American Express Platinum Card members. The tour was led by Michael Buller, a well-respected wine writer; I was simply on-site to ensure the event went off without any major flaws. (aka I carried Michael’s luggage.) Midway through the trip, we visited Chateau Margaux; where chateau director Paul Pontillier treated the group to a fantastic tasting in the famous first-growth cellar. I have never been quiet sure whether I was under the influence of Monsieur Pontillier’s good looks, his breath-taking French accent, or the romantic ambiance of his stellar cellar, but one thing is for sure – I was smitten by the wine in my glass. It was my vinous “ah ha moment,” and I have never viewed wine the same fashion since that unforgettable sip. The wine was 1992 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux. For me, this average vintage rocked my palate and my world. It is my ah ha wine. 

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Fireside Sippers

With lots of candy leftover from the Halloween season, I find myself temped to nibble a piece at the end of the day. Trouble is…I also find myself wanting a glass of vino. For me,there is no better time to uncork a simple ruby port than the start of the holiday season. From Nov 1st to Jan 1st, I find myself sipping fortifieds and nibbling on more sweets than anyother time of the year. Did I tell ya there is snow on the ground already! Yikes. Here are two of my favorite fireside sippers:

Fonseca Bin 27 Ruby Port: This non-vintage port (meaning multiple vintages blended together) is crafted using Touriga Nacional, the star grape of Portugal. The wine is a good quality, everyday port that will please the palate without breaking the bank. The wine is fortified (dosed with grape spirits) during fermentation, so the yeast does not have enough time to consume all of the sugar in the vat. The result is a fruity, spicy red that is bold, high in alcohol and sweet. Sip with your favorite chocolate dessert.

Osborne PX Sherry: One of my favorite dessert wines, this Sherry is made in the Jerez region of Spain using a sweet little grape called Pedro Ximenez (PX). The wine is fortified with grape spirit resulting in full body, high alcohol wine with a lush, rich flavor of toffee, raisins and nuts. Try with pecan pie or milk chocolate desserts. Yummy.

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